Please forgive me for not writing anything about our trip to Alaska, even though we’ve been home for two months. I just haven’t been able to figure out what to write. I could give you an itinerary, but that wouldn’t communicate at all the
flavor of being there. Instead, I’ve decided to describe just a few of the many things we saw and did.
Southeast Alaska is made up of mostly islands and very few roads. There are no roads connecting the various cities. Alaska’s answer to that is the Alaska Marine Highway System—
ferries that are pretty elaborate compared to those in Washington. We spent about 60 hours on ferries, including three overnights. (You can rent a cabin with two or four beds, a bathroom, and small table for eating.)
The most
memorable part of those ferry trips was the Wrangell Narrows—a 22-mile passage just south of Petersburg, between two large islands. Correctly navigating the Nar
rows saves the ferry system time and money. The alternative is about ten times longer and would require the ferries to leave the more protected waters of the Inside Passage.
But navigation isn’t easy. It’s not that the distance between islands is too narrow, but sandbars and boulders dropped by melting glaciers make the journey treacherous. The Coast Guard has dredged a channel just wide enough for a ferry, and 24 feet deep. The ferry is 17 feet below the water. So there is no room for error.
There are m
any navigational aids to help on the trip:
*The captain has memorized all of the land forms.
*A crew member watches from the bow of the ship to report any concerns.
*A spotlight (at night) illuminates anything unusual.
*There are more than 60 blinking green lights (left-west) and red lights (right-east) along the channel.
So Lita and I stayed up late to watch as our ship passed through the Wrangell Narrows about midnight. (The girls and I made the northward journey alone, and then joined the guys in Juneau after they had driven to Skagway and taken their own ferry.) You wouldn’t think it would be that interesting to watch green and red lights for more than an hour. But, though we didn’t feel any real danger, there was something intense about this voyage.
At first we saw just a few lights—some green, some red. Occasionally the spotlight would turn on to investigate s
omething unfamiliar—like the fishing boat that was moored on a sandbar. But soon t
here were many, many blinking lights—and they seemed all mixed up. (We could see why this was nicknamed Christmas Tree Lane!) Sometimes there was a green that seemed surrounded by reds, or vice versa because the twists and turns of the channel confused our perspective. But the lights are set to blink at different speeds in different locations. And the captain knew the lights, so he was not confused.

Finally, we saw the lights of Petersburg, and we knew we were safely through. But that was a memorable trip!
A second highlight was church in Pelican. I know you have heard from Jenni that Pelican is pretty isolated. The ferry stops there twice a month (once a month in the winter), and there are only a handful of cars, but lots of ATV’s. (Less than one mile of road, I would estimate.) The city clings to the side of a mountain on Chichagoff Island, right on the inlet. All of the houses are on stilts so they don’t get flooded at high tide. The “main drag” is the boardwalk.
Anyway, as Dave puts it, we went to church on a spaceship. That’s because the piec
e of technological equipment that allows us to hear the church meetings in Gustavus looks like an alien vessel. We started with a hymn and a prayer, then Dave and Caleb blessed and passed the sacrament. There was a really special Spirit as we took the sacrament with just our family around. Then we called Gustavus and listened to the talks and the closing song and prayer. After that, we hung up and the Primary president called us. Each of the kids introduced himself (Caleb and Lita joined in too), then they all participated in Sharing Time. Naomi even gave a prayer.
We came in to Pelican on the ferry. Since we didn’t stay two weeks, we had to charter a seaplane to get out. We had arranged to fly north over Glacier Bay, and then south to Sitka. Unfortunately, low clouds made it hard for the pilot to even get to Pelican, so we had to forgo the Glacier Bay part.

(No refund; weather is just something you deal with in Alaska.)
I was a little nervous (about all that ocean) and disappointed about Glacier Bay. And I was totally unprepared for the incredible beauty we could see from the air. The islands were like little green mounds all over the ocean. The water was clear and—where shallow enough—you could see right to the bottom. Little beaches showed up here and there. And there were the muskegs: marshy places that were a lighter color because the Sitka spruces don’t grow there.
We had to squeeze to get six people and all of our luggage into one noisy little plane, but it was worth it.
Coming back through Customs (in Prince Rupert, BC), there was a sign that said “Please wait behind the line.” The French sign, however, said “You WANT TO wait behind the line.” Aren’t languages fun?
There was a lot more: whales, totem poles, ocean, rivers, towns, etc. But I hope this gives you a taste of our adventure.
Cheryl and family